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Dunken Company World war 2 soldiers, civil war chess, prussian, fantasy elves, napoleonic french troops and viking molds examples when cast and painted
 

Casting tutorial #1

Before starting it is always advisable to heat the mold and use it while warmed.

This removes dampness, which can cause the hot metal to splatter and to allow a better flow of metal in the mold.

The temperature may vary depending on the mold and metal used but I find that between 30 degrees and 40 degrees Celsius best. You can easily set the temperature in most ovens.

Always apply dry talcum power (see illustration on right) to BOTH parts of the molds from edge to edge. This protects the mould. More importantly this practice allows the air to escape during casting.

Talcum powser needs to be absolutely dry before application so warm it as well as the mold. (Water expands 2000 times when turned to steam.)

Always slap mold halves together to remove excess talcum powder. (See illustration on left)

To much can effect the surface texture of the miniature or block the flow of metal to some parts of the miniature.

Place O Rings in the neck location (does not apply to all moulds).

This will form a tubular joint for the location of the head and will allow you to do simple alterations as changing the head or turning the head (only applys to certain molds).

Tips to remember:

  • Heat mold and talcum beforehand.
  • Apply talcum evenly and clap halves together to remove excess.
  • Add O Rings to body to allow later alterations.

Apply talcum powder to both sides of the mold

Clap both molds together to remove excess powder.

Insert 0 rings in the neck location


Casting Tutorial #1 Filing Tutorial #1 Painting Tutorial #1
Casting Tutorial #2 Filing Tutorial #2 Painting Tutorial #2
Casting Tutorial #3 Filing Tutorial #3 Painting Tutorial #3
Casting Tutorial #4 Painting Tutorial #4

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